Devon Broglie, 37 – is the Whole Foods Market Southwest Regional Specialty Coordinator, and is one of very few Master Sommeliers working for a national supermarket brand; he’s been part of the Whole Foods family for just over 10 years.

Craig Collins, 35 – is Sales Manager for the Prestige division of Glazer’s Distributors.

They both have put Austin in the map as a wine enjoyment destination.

If you’d like to learn more about these two wine hunters, news of their success have spread quite rapidly all over the webbosphere [yes, just made that up] – so, congratulate them if you see them! We wish an even more enlightened path ahead for both of them. Cheers!

 Also, a recent post by DallasNews.com -

Duchman winery sales guy named best Texas sommelier

By

Kim Pierce/Reporter

kpierce1@airmail.net | Bio

11:45 AM on Tue., Aug. 16, 2011 | Permalink

 File this under “who knew he had such a hidden talent?” Bill Elsey, director of sales at Duchman Family Winery in Driftwood (the winery that gave us the incredible vermentino) was named Texsom’s 2011 Texas Best Sommelier last night at the Grand Tasting and Awards Reception at the Four Seasons Resort & Club in Las Colinas.

On April 29th I experienced another journey into the Caves of the Cellars. An impromptu day of randomness inspired a trip to the winery in the Texas Hill Country to be able to taste wine from the region. Invited by propriétaires Margaret and Allan Fetty, a good colleague, Copper Anderson, and myself went to see the operations, and got a good oportunity to sample a wide viriety of Texan wine. More than half of the wines we sampled were unbottled, still young. But we sampled some bottled wine and overall it is a great effort and it shows and induces you to enjoy! We couldn’t be more anxious to be back yet again.

Below is what we had to sample:

• • Westcave Cellars Winery,
    Texas Hill Country, Viognier, 2010

  This medium-full body viognier is vinified
  off-dry. It is bright straw green color, and it has adequate aroma
  characteristics of citrus and tropical fruit and more complex aromas of candied
  peach and crystallized ginger that finishes with a hint of vanilla. It has
  smooth crisp acidity with a pleasant very long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas High Plains, Viognier, 2010

  Medium-full body and medium-dry Viogner. Clear
  medium straw color. It has powerful and complex aromas of white peach, lychee
  fruit, citrus, pear and apple, floral notes, herbal tones, and grassy accents.
  It has supple and lively acidity, and it fills the mouth with flavors of green
  apple, grapefruit, lemon and lime. Pleasant long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas High Plains, Muscat Blanc, 2010

Grown in the Texas High Plains, this white
Muscat is clear straw to yellow canary hue. Simple aromas of ripe peach,
honeysuckle and pineapple, and more developed aromas of lily, kiwi and wet
stone. A pleasant quality of white peach, pear and apple flavors. Medium –dry
and velvety to the tongue, medium-full body with a lively smooth acidity and a pleasant
long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas High Plains, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

   

The Cabernet grown in the Panhandle is clear and
it has a dark cherry to garnet color. Aromas of red chili pepper, red apple,
blackberry dominated and it showcased graceful accents of cedar and wet stone.
Flavors of dark cherry, mature red apple, and tamarind with a lingering spicy
finish. Rounded full body with rich tannins and a pleasant long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Cuvée, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

   

A proprietor’s select blend of Cabernet grown on
the Estate. A clear, medium garnet to brick red hue. It has aromas of red
berries, dark plum, and clove with a hint of toasted coffee. Fills the tongue
with flavors of dark cherry, raspberry and spice. Supple full body with soft
tannins and a pleasant long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas High Plains, Merlot Noir, 2010

   

This High Plains Merlot has a dark ruby to
cherry color. Aromas of black berries, dark cherry and spice. Flavors of dark
cherry, plum, and earthy accents of cedar. Rounded and supple full body, with
rich soft tannins and a pleasant very long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Tannat, 2010

   

This estate grown Tannat is clear, with a dark
opaque purple to red violet colors. Releases aromas of plum and black currant,
and dark cherry. It brings flavors of black cherry, blueberry, dark plum and a
nice anise or licorice finish. Smooth full body with balanced tannins and a
pleasant very long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas High Plains, Blanc de Merlot Noir, 2010

   

A clear orange-red rosé made with Merlot from
the Panhandle of Texas. It has a nose showcasing aromas of rose petals,
strawberry, cranberry and a lemon zest. Flavors of raspberry, cherry, ripe
strawberry, apricot and orange zest fill the mouth. It is finished medium-sweet
balanced with a smooth yet lively acidity in this medium-full body wine with a
pleasant long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas, Blanc de Zinfandel, 2010

   

This Zinfandel grown in Eastern Texas has a
bright light-medium salmon color. Cranberry on the nose, and noticeable aromas
of white rose blossom with hints of mountain rain and alpine springs.
Showcasing flavors of cranberry, cherry, raspberry and a clove finish. This
medium-full body Zin is balanced with velvety sweetness and a very pleasant
soft long finish.

• • Westcave Cellars
    Winery, Texas, Cabernet Sauvignon, “Sweet Red Wine” 2010

   

This proprietary blend of Cabernet and Muscat
has a medium cherry color. Pleasant aromas of watermelon and tamarind on the
nose. Brings flavors of cherry and watermelon. A smoothly balanced sweet wine
with a medium body and a straightforward medium finish.

Undiscovered Wine Regions

Not literally undiscovered, but certainly overlooked, these off-the-radar destinations are well worth a visit.

Published on Jan 26, 2011

By Risa Wyatt

http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/February-2011/Undiscovered-expansion/

 

Let’s just assume we know about the great wine regions of the world, such as Bordeaux, Rioja, Napa—but what about all of the other intriguing destinations worldwide in the wine game? The following roster of wine regions covers two types of emerging destinations. Some locales—such as Romania and Umbria—enjoy long wine-growing traditions but have remained isolated from the viticultural mainstream. In other parts of the world—from Texas to Patagonia—passionate pioneers are daring to boldly plant where no vinifera has gone before.   

In selecting these regions, we considered areas where the wine has evolved from quirky curiosity to worthy collectible. Many of these wines receive minimal distribution beyond their own appellation, which means to enjoy them, you might just have to visit. What’s wonderful about viewing these as unique travel destinations is that each has a personalized feel. Winemakers literally climb out of fermentation vats to greet visitors, and leading restaurants might seat just 20 diners. For wine lovers, touring these counties and countries places a landscape behind the labels and lends new appeal to appellations.   

1. Texas Hill Country, United States. Lone Star’s Rising Star

At the mention of Texas, most people think of cowboys and Stetsons rather than Cabernet and Syrah. But Texas ranks as America’s fifth-largest wine-producing state—and Texas Hill Country is the second-most-visited wine region in the U.S., trailing only Napa Valley.Texas Hill Country lies north of San Antonio and west of Austin—about 75 miles from each. Its 27 wineries cluster around historic towns and rolling landscapes. Dry limestone soils, warm days and hot nights are perfect for warm-weather grape varieties. The biggest challenges for growers are frosts in the spring, which can kill tender vine shoots, and high humidity in summer, which can foster mildew.   

While Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay have done well, the rising stars are Viognier, Grenache, Syrah, Sangiovese, Vermentino, Tempranillo and Tannat.   

Founded in 1975, Fall Creek Vineyards ranks as the region’s oldest winery and is known for its superpremium Meritus, a Cabernet-Merlot blend. Surrounded by three acres of lavender fields, Becker Vineyards garners accolades for Viognier.   

Texas Hill Country Wineries, texaswinetrail.com   

 Other Attractions:

Austin holds the annual Austin Wine & Music Festival in May.

http://www.austinwineandmusicfestival.com/

October is Texas Wine Month – Over 200 wineries in the State.

Texas Hill Country AVA is the Nation’s second most visited Wine Country.

The Texas Hill Country Wineries offer annual Wine Trails – visit:

http://www.texaswinetrail.com/index.html

Allow this unique city to show you what it means to, “Keep Austin Weird,” as its motto insists. Seemingly misplaced in the land of honky tonk, this art-influenced, distinctly different city boasts the title of “Live Music Capital of the World.”

At the Alamo in San Antonio, a small band of Texans held out for 13 days against Mexican forces during the Texas Revolution in 1836. The former mission is one of the most-visited historic sites in the country.   

Along San Antonio’s River Walk, stone paths connect several museums and historic districts. Check out the Pearl Stable Complex, a one-time brewery that now holds gourmet markets, restaurants, condos and a branch of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA).   

Founded by German immigrants in 1846, Fredericksburg resembles a village on the Rhine with stone and fachwerk (half-timbered) buildings. At Cabernet Grill, dive into Hill Country fare such as jalapeño-stuffed quail and rib-eye with green chili cream gravy. The wine list showcases more than 70 Texas labels.   

“A special corner of God’s real estate.” That’s how President Lyndon B. Johnson described his sprawling cattle ranch in Hill Country. Now open to the public, the property is part of Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park. 

2. Niagara Peninsula, Canada Cold Comforts

“From water into wine” could be the motto for the Niagara Peninsula. This region was once best known for the thundering waters of Niagara Falls. Now the area ranks as the largest VA (Viticultural Area) in Canada, producing 70% of the country’s wine grapes.

Bordered by Lake Ontario on the north and Lake Erie to the south, the Niagara Peninsula lies 80 miles from Toronto. Lake Ontario moderates temperatures, warming the region in winter and cooling it in summer. The region’s fossil-rich limestone soils create the distinctive mineral profile of the wines. Cool-climate varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc flourish.   

Dubbed “liquid gold,” ice wine rules as the region’s signature product. It is made from grapes harvested at temperatures below 17oF. Handpicked at dawn, the frozen grapes are pressed to release concentrated, yellow-gold liquid. Most ice wine is made from either Riesling or Vidal (a hybrid suited to cold climes).   

The Niagara Peninsula has more than 70 wineries. In 1975, Inniskillin became the first licensed winery in Ontario since 1929. In the tasting room housed in a renovated 1920s barn, visitors can sample an array of icewines, including sparklers and one made from Cabernet Franc. Jackson- Triggs produces icewine as well as Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay and a white Meritage (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon).   

The world’s first LEED-certified wine-making facility, Stratus Winery features a geothermal energy system and tasting room set in a glass cube designed to minimize heat gain. At Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery, visitors can buy signed prints and collectibles related to the hockey star. Wine Country Ontario (WCO), winesofontario.org   

Other Attractions:

Mists surge and rainbows arch from the plummeting waters of Niagara Falls. The flowing phenomenon contains three cascades: Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side of the border, and the American Falls and smaller Bridal Veil Falls in the U.S.   

Even though the waterfalls get more press, the Niagara Escarpment ranks as a natural wonder in its own right; it‘s a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. The oldest and longest continuous footpath in Canada, the Bruce Trail showcases vistas of sheer cliffs, pebbled beaches and old-growth white cedars.   

Situated near some 60 wineries, Niagara-on-the-Lake (locals call it “NOTL”) captivates visitors with its 19th-century clapboard and brick houses. Each January, the town hosts the Niagara Ice wine Festival, with events ranging from ice bars and chestnut roasts to winery tours.   

3. Jura, France. The New Jurassic Age

   The Jurassic era of dinosaur fame derives its name from the Jura Mountains, which arc along the Franco-Swiss border from the Rhine to the Rhône. Located east of Burgundy, the Jura region nestles against the mountains, giving it a colder climate than its neighbor. Vineyards occupy south-facing slopes to maximize exposure to sunlight and heat. Jura encompasses only 4,600 acres of vineyards, making it the smallest wine region in France.   

Like Burgundy, Jura produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But it distinguishes itself with wines and grapes unique to its six AOCs (appellations). The most celebrated is Vin Jaune (“yellow wine”), which is made from Savagnin, a grape related to Gewürztraminer. Aged for six years in barrels that are not topped off, the wine develops a veil of yeast on its surface. The resulting dry wine, which can age for decades, conveys aromas of honey, curry, nuts and dried rose petals. Well-regarded producers include André & Mireille Tissot, Château Béthanie, Domaine Berthet-Bondet and Frédéric Lornet.   

Jura produces several other unique drinks. Vin de Paille (“straw wine”) refers to sweet wine made from overripe grapes that are dried on straw mats after harvest. Macvin, a vin de liqueur, comes from unfermented grape juice combined with brandy. A sparkling wine, Crémant du Jura, is crafted according to the méthode champenoise using Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Poulsard (a red grape). Wines of Jura, jura-vins.com   

Other Attractions:

According to legend, Vin Jaune was invented by nuns at Château-Chalon, whose abbey was founded in the seventh century. Perched on a bluff above its vineyards, the scenic town holds remnants of a Romanesque church and 13th- century castle.   

Louis Pasteur was born and raised in the Jura region. In addition to breakthroughs in disease prevention, he improved modern winemaking techniques. Open to the public, Pasteur’s house in Arbois contains many of his personal souvenirs, instruments and photos.   

Say cheese—Jura produces notable fromages including Comté and Morbier, both of which pair perfectly with the local wines.   

4. Michigan, United States Northern Exposure

Most quality wine grapes grow within 25 miles of Lake Michigan. Thanks to this “lake effect,” prodigious snowfall helps protect the vines in winter, while proximity to warm waters lengthens the growing season in autumn.   

Located on the 45th Parallel—the same latitude as Burgundy and Oregon—Michigan has four AVAs and nearly 80 wineries. Riesling is the most widely planted white, while Pinot Noir tops the list for reds.   

Michigan’s favorite summer vacation spot is also a haven for wine grapes: Traverse City. In 1974, Ed O’Keefe planted the first large-scale vineyards with classic European varieties on the Old Mission Peninsula. His family-run Chateau Grand Traverse remains a pre-eminent producer of Riesling.   

Black Star Farms bills itself as an “agricultural destination,” with two tasting rooms plus an inn, café, creamery, and equestrian facility. In addition to wines, it produces eau de vie brandies from locally grown pears, apricots and cherries.   

Spread along 100 miles of lake shoreline, the Leelanau Peninsula is called “Michigan’s Wine Coast” since it has nearly 20 wineries. Named after a 19th-century logging settlement, Gill’s Pier Vineyard & Winery is known for a medium-bodied Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend. Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council, michiganwines.com   

Other Attractions:

A replica of a 1800s cargo schooner, the tall ship Manitou features wine tastings while guests sail around Grand Traverse Bay.   

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers sweeping vistas of Lake Michigan—as well as 400-foot dunes, hiking trails, historic farmsteads… and some of the best beaches in the state.   

Everything’s coming up cherries in Traverse City—largest producer of that fruit in the United States. The National Cherry Festival (July 2–9, 2011) serves up marching bands and pie-eating contests. Any time of year, Cherry Republic sells everything from juice to salsas.   

5. Patagonia, Argentina. Beginnings at the Ends of the Earth

How remote is Patagonia? Writer Bruce Chatwin called it “The farthest place to which man has walked from his place of origins.” You won’t see icebergs or penguins—but will encounter some of the southernmost vineyards on the planet.   

Although Patagonia stretches to Tierra del Fuego, its winelands lie in the north of the region, just 400 miles south of the famous vineyards in Mendoza. We’re talking desert—only seven inches of rain falls annually. The dry, breezy climate helps protect grapes from diseases such as powdery mildew. Since day-night temperatures can swing 40˚, grapes ripen slowly, preserving sugar-acidity balance. One challenge lies in relentless winds that can tangle vine shoots and damage buds during flowering. And hungry parrots and wild boar sometimes feed on fruit and vine.   

Patagonia is comprised of two main wine growing regions: Neuquén and Río Negro. Most plantings are red, but Chardonnay, Sémillon and Torrontés also perform well. In Neuquén, most wineries are centered in the valley of San Patricio del Chañar. A pioneering winery in the region, Bodega del Fin del Mundo, earns medals with its Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec blends. Michel Rolland serves as consulting enologist.   

Set on the wild, parched Patagonian plateau, the Río Negro region suits white varieties like Traminer and Riesling, as well as Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir. Notable winery Bodega Noemia de Patagonia is biodynamically farmed and its wines offer bold black fruit and smoke flavors. Wines of Argentina, winesofargentina.org   

Other Attractions:

The Argentine Lake District lies in the southwestern part of Neuquén province. On the Seven Lakes driving route, visitors admire vistas of snowcapped peaks towering over crystalline lakes.   

”The rock that speaks.” That’s the name the indigenous Araucanian peoples gave to the monumental Somuncurá Plateau in the south of Río Negro province. Resembling fortresses, sheer basalt walls rise from the plains, and lakes shelter flamingos, swans and ducks.   

Set below the final peaks of the Andes, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-SHWY-ah) claims to be the southernmost city in the world (55 south latitude). From here, people can ride the “End of the World Train” (a former convict conveyance) to Tierra del Fuego National Park. Landscapes encompass coast, forest and mountains.   

Cordero asado (barbecued lamb) is the regional specialty, slowly cooked over wood from the piquillín (a spiny shrub).   

- Oscar is a Chile Destination Specialist by Turismo Chile since 2008 -

6. Umbria, Italy. Wines from Medieval Times

Once overshadowed by Tuscany, its neighbor to the northwest, Umbria now claims its own place in the Italian sun. Travelers are discovering its medieval hill towns and unique red wines.   

Umbria is the only landlocked region of Italy. In climate and geography, it resembles Tuscany, with dry, sun-struck summers and cold, rainy winters. The region holds eleven DOCs (classified growing areas) and two DOCGs (wines meeting the highest quality levels). Both DOCGs designate dry reds.   

Until recently, Umbria was best known for white wines from Orvieto, made from Procanico (a local version of Trebbiano) and Grechetto. In recent decades, the once-sweet Orvieto has been reconfigured into a vibrant, crisp wine.   

Sagrantino di Montefalco has been cultivated for millennia. Thick skinned, the grape yields a burly, ruby-red wine with high tannins. During the Middle Ages, Sagrantino was made into passito, a semisweet wine produced by letting grapes dry after picking to intensify the sugars. More recently, winemakers have adapted Sagrantino for a secco (dry) wine that ages in oak for 29 months to tame it.   

Another DOCG red is Torgiano Riserva, which relies on Sangiovese (50–70%) and Canaiolo (15–30%). Since the 1960s, the Lungarotti family has been synonymous with Torgiano’s wines. Benchmarks for the region, their single-vineyard Rubesco Riservas can age for 30-plus years.   

Sangiovese and Merlot also perform well, and sometimes team up for “Super Umbrian” wines such as Campoleone, a blend from Lamborghini. Founded in the 1970s by Ferruccio Lamborghini of the famous car-manufacturing firm, the wine estate lies near Lake Trasimeno. The Foods and Wines of Italy/Italian Trade Commission, italianmade.com   

Other Attractions:

In Italy, the term agriturismo means vacation accommodations in farmhouses that can range from simple to sumptuous. Several notable Umbrian wineries have agriturismos tucked among vineyards, including Antonelli, Lungarotti and Lamborghini.   

Head for the hills—Umbria’s beguiling hill towns. Favorites include Gubbio, filled with ancient feudal palaces, and Todi, overlooking the Tiber River.   

Built in the 13th century, the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi houses the saint’s tomb. It also holds a treasure-trove of frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and other medieval masters. Although it was badly damaged by a 1997 earthquake, most paintings have been successfully restored.   

Porchetta—roast suckling pig—rules as the Umbrian specialty. The distinctive pasta is strangozzi, which is made with a “poor” dough (without eggs). About 80% of Italy’s production of truffles—both black and white—come from Umbria. The fabulous fungi appear in local specialties such as spaghetti alla nursina.   

7. Waiheke Island, New Zealand. Island of Wines

Martha’s Vineyard meets wine country on Waiheke Island in the Hauraki Gulf. Located 35 minutes by ferry from Auckland, the isle is known for holiday beaches—weekend cottages scattered around shores. The ocean helps moderate temperatures, creating a long, mild growing season. Windbreaks of pine trees protect vineyards from Antarctic winds that can hamper fruit set.   

Steep terrain makes for small, labor-intensive vineyards. Although Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comprise 60% of plantings, Syrah is the new ”it” grape and reveals subtle floral and spicy bouquets.   

Most wineries have tasting rooms, which are known as “cellar doors” Down Under. Shaded by 200-year-old Pohutukawa trees, Kennedy Point uses organic and biodynamic techniques to produce top-quality Syrah.   

Tony Forsyth, a former psychologist who started Te Whau on a precipitous headland in 1993, crafts a Cab/Merlot blend that delivers a huge fruit component and soft tannins.   

Stonyridge is known for its Bordeaux-style Larose, a blend that has ranked with Pétrus and Lafite Rothschild in blind tastings. The restaurant serves a delightful brunch overlooking the vineyards. Waiheke Winegrowers Association, waihekewine.co.nz   

Other Attractions:

More than 70 artists and craftspeople live on the island and exhibit works at area galleries and studios. Look for paintings by Mike Morgan, a bearded, barefooted artist who creates whimsically surreal images of the local scene. The Waiheke Community Art Gallery showcases a wide range of artists.   

Pair white wines with local specialties such as plump Te Matuku Bay oysters, pipi (a mollusk with an elongated shell) and tarakihi (ocean bream), a firm, moist white fish.   

Cliffs, coves, and beaches—you can see them all while sea-kayaking in the island’s protected waters. Waiheke Island Tours and Kayak Adventures offers guided trips.   

8. Sierra Foothills, United States. Original Zin

During the California Gold Rush of 1849, pioneers headed west with pick-axes, shovels—and grapevine cuttings. Often their plantings panned out better than their prospecting. One variety that originated in Croatia grew especially well. Today, the Sierra Foothills AVA holds some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards in the U.S.   

Located on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the area lies 100 miles east of both San Francisco and the Napa Valley. The region features over 100 wineries centered in the counties of Amador, El Dorado and calaveras.   

In the Sierra Foothills, richly-flavored Zinfandel reigns. “Old-vine” plantings are exactly that; some date to the 1860s. Many vineyards are also “dry farmed,” meaning not irrigated. Well-drained, nutrient-poor soils encourage vines to send their roots deep for nourishment and water, creating intensely flavored grapes.   

Sobon Estate encompasses the historic D’Agostini Winery, founded in 1856 by Adam Uhlinger, a Swiss immigrant. Now a California State Historic Landmark, the old winery, with its rock walls and hand-hewn beams, houses the Shenandoah Valley Museum.   

Increasingly, winemakers are turning attention to varieties from Italy, which thrive in the rocky, iron-rich soils of the Sierra Foothills.
Amador Vintners’ Association, amadorwine.com; Calaveras Winegrape Alliance, calaveraswines.org; El Dorado Winery Association, eldoradowines.org “We’ve got a layer of granite that Barbera really likes,” says Villa Toscano winemaker Susan Farrington.   

Other Attractions:

At Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park in Coloma, visitors can see original buildings and try their hand at panning for gold.Several gold mines are open to the public, including Sutter Gold Mine, where tours delve 450 feet underground to an old quartz vein.   

Sutter Creek retains 19th-century charm with wooden storefronts lining Main Street. For lunch, Susan’s Place features California/Mediterranean cuisine, a garden patio and selection of local wines.   

Former mining towns flank CA-49, dubbed the Gold Country Highway. Once the richest strike in the Mother Lode, Jackson offers maps for self-guided walking tours through its historic center. In Murphys, the Ironstone Heritage Museum houses the largest crystalline gold leaf specimen in the world, weighing 44 pounds.   

Sierra Foothills wineries and attractions make for easy stops on the way to Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park.   

Contact: Amador Vintners’ Association: 888-655-8614 or 209-245-6992; www.amadorwine.com; Calaveras Winegrape Alliance: 866-806-WINE or 209-728-9467; www.calaveraswines.org; El Dorado Winery Association: 800-306-3956; www.eldoradowines.org 

9. Idaho, United States. Not Small Potatoes

Home to nearly 20 wineries, the Snake River Valley ranks as one of America’s newest American Viticultural Areas—and also the first in Idaho. The region lies 30 miles west of Boise.   

Warm days and cool nights characterize the short growing season in the northern high desert. To produce top wines, meticulous management is mandatory. So that grapes ripen, growers “drop fruit” (prune clusters) to limit yields to 1.5 tons per acre (three to four tons per acre is common in the Napa Valley). Syrah and Viognier thrive in the well-drained soils; winemakers also are experimenting with Tempranillo.   

In particular, growers are enthusiastic about the Sunnyslope area, south-facing vineyards above the Snake River. Koenig produces premium wines (try the Viognier and Syrah) plus fruit brandies and Famous Idaho Potato Vodka.   

Named for the volcanic layers underlying vineyards, Cinder crafts top wines under winemaker/owner Melanie Krause. Other well-regarded vintners include Bitner, Williamson and Davis Creek Cellars. Snake River Valley Wine region, snakerivervalleywine.org   

Other Attractions:

Set in a Masonic Lodge built in 1919, Brick 29 Restaurant in Nampa showcases locally produced wine and food. Chef Dustan Bristol reinvents comfort classics such as red-wine-braised Kurobuta pork cheeks served with a fingerling potato-sage hash.   

For more than a century, Boise has served as a gathering place for immigrants from the Basque region. The Basque Museum & Cultural Center celebrates their heritage with cultural festivals, wine tastings and other gatherings. Nearby, the Basque Market sells delicacies such as Serrano ham and stuffed piquillo peppers. They also sell the largest selection of Spanish wines in the Northwest.    

World-class whitewater flows just minutes from Boise on the Payette River. Cascade Raft offers a variety of river trips, from mellow, half-day floats to a full day of surging rapids.   

10. Romania, Of Vines and Vampires

Long before Count Dracula, wine flowed in Romania. Viticulture in this region goes back more than 4,000 years.   

Under Communism, Romania produced plentiful—and cheap—wine. The country was saddled with obsolete clones and vineyard practices. A member of the European Union since 2007, the country now aims to produce top wines.   

The Black Sea, Danube River and 8,500-foot Carpathian Mountains moderate the mainly continental climate’s hot summers and cold winters. Winemakers work with both international (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay) and traditional Romanian varieties.   

Of the heritage grapes, the best-known red is Feteasc˘a Neagr˘a (Black Maiden), which offers robust black currant flavor. Among the whites, Feteasc˘a Alb˘a (White Maiden) produces dessert wines hinting of peaches and Feteasc˘a Regal˘a (Royal Maiden) yields citrus and offers spice notes.   

Romania holds several wine regions. Transylvania occupies a plateau surrounded by the Carpathians. The cool, misty climate suits whites: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and indigenous varieties. Jidvei Winery offers tastings in their 16th-century castle. The sweet whites of Cotnari (in northeastern Romania) use botrytized grapes, balancing sugar with good acid structure. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sémillon and Viognier also thrive. APEV (Romanian Wine Exporters and Producers Association), wineromania.com   

Other Attractions:

The alleged abode of Count Dracula, Bran Castle, looms atop a 200-foot rock near Brasov. Built in the 14th century, the brooding bastion features towers, timbered rooms and narrow, winding stairways. Bring garlic.   

Masterpieces of Byzantine art, the Painted Monasteries of Bucovina (near Cotnari) are decorated with 15th and 16th century frescoes depicting saints and scenes from the life of Jesus. Seven churches are on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.   

One of Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns, Sighisoara surrounds a 12th-century citadel built by Saxon colonists. Sighisoara is also the birthplace of Vlad III the Impaler, the 15th-century ruler who inspired the fictional vampire.   

Built in 1892, the Rhein Azuga Cellar is the oldest facility in Romania that produces sparkling wine using the méthode Champenoise. The property includes a 15-room hotel. Set in the Carpathian Mountains, Azuga is one of Romania’s main ski resorts.   

Winter -

On December 9th, 2010, I was luckily invited to assess young wine, out of fermentation tanks and barrels at a brand new winery in the Texas Hill Country – Westcave Cellars Winery, where the proprietors are carefully selecting vines to grow and wines to blend. The promise is spectacular, and experiencing this first hand, was such an honor. Viticulturist Margaret Fetty briefly explained their vineyard’s floor plan, and extension of the varietals planted, as well as some trailing and training techniques. Enologist Allan Fetty, invited me to the winery production room and the dimmed barrel cellar room. The evening seemed promising – but I certainly wasn’t expecting all that I got.

So, you get to spit on the ground, rinse your glass with a hose, and munch on oyster crackers sitting on a chair [the crackers that is] while two Schnauzers roam around you curiously….quite a formal setting - for a winery on the rise anyway, and the perfect bait for a wine sommelier indeed. To partake in such a tasting at Westcave Cellars with the Fetty’s was such a pleasure; a winery which is not yet open to the public, nor is their tasting room yet finished – but progressing the way that they are doing with the wine, they are sure to pack their tasting room in 2011.

While I was there for the first time, I got invited to taste unbottled ’raw’ wine, as Winemaker Allan Fetty said, and I tasted all that was available to taste, to better give an impression of the fruit of their labor. I’m already looking forward to my next visit to see what else is brewing – on the meantime, here’s a list of what I got to taste! – and just to remind – this is a small operation, very limited vintage bottling to begin with. Cheers!

Westcave Cellars Winery

This full body viognier was vinified dry and cellared in stainless steel. It was a clear pale green color, and it had a simple and adequate aroma characteristics of green apple and pear, citrus and tropical fruit. It had fresh and lively acidity with a long finish. 

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Lost Draw Vineyard, Viognier, 2010

This viognier came from the High Plains of Texas, and it had not yet been filtered. It has spent a short time in a neutral French oak barrel. Visually a dense and opaque golden straw color. It had complex aromas of pineapple, guava, papaya and tropical fruit, coconut and vanilla accents. Medium to full body, fermented dry and a medium finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Vermentino, 2010

A brilliant pale straw Vermentino, it showcased powerful aromas of kiwi, melon, tropical fruits, citrus, with a bounty of floral and herbaceous characteristics like dill. Full body and dry with a long finish from lively tart acidity. Certainly one of the stars of the evening. Wiht a very limited production, it will prove to be a golden ticket. 

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Muscat Blanc, 2010

This clear straw-colored white muscat had a powerful aroma of lychee fruit, white peach and mango, and some floral notes. The finish was framed by citrus peel and a buttered pastry. Rounded and Full Body, Dry with green, lively acidity with a long finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Lost Draw Vineyard, Muscat Blanc, 2010

Grown in the Texas High Plains, this white muscat was unfiltered and dense. It showcased a pale green to a green straw in hues. Simple aromas of citrus and tropical fruit. It was fermented dry and it was light to medium body with tart green acidity and a medium finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Hendricks Vineyard, Blanc de Merlot Noir, 2010

A clear cherry red rosé made with Merlot from North Texas. It had a powerful nose, showcasing aromas of cucumber, celery, fennel, rose petals and strawberry.  It was fermented dry, with a medium to full body, well rounded, and tart lively acidity. Medium to long finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Texas, Blanc de Zinfandel, 2010

This Zinfandel grown in Eastern Texas was clear and bright. It had a medium pink-salmon hue. Rose blossom aromas, and it showcased flavors of cranberry, lemon and a clove finish. Fermented dry, generous in alcohol, fresh acidity with a long finish.  It was a great aperitif.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

This Sauvignon Rouge grown in the estate was barely aged 3 months in new, medium-toast, French Oak barrels. It was a clear, medium-light brick-red, garnet color. Powerful aromas of toast, coffee, dark plum and watermelon. Flavors of cranberry and dark cherry, with rich soft tannins, and a tart acidity with a long finish. Full body and dry.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Williams Family Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

Cabernet grown in North Texas was clear and bright. It had a dark red violet color and a powerful nose. Aromas of tamarind, watermelon, red chilli peppers, and chamoy dominated. Flavors of blood orange, red grapefruit, chamoy and cherry with a lingering leathery finish. Full body with soft tannins and a medium finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Estate Cuvée, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

Blended 50% Estate grown Cabernet, with  50% Williams Family Vineyards.  A clear, medium garnet to cherry hues. It had an ordinary aroma of tamarind, dark berries, dark plum and cassis. Full body and tart green acidity, generous alcohol and a long finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Hendricks Vineyard, Merlot Noir, 2010

This was an unfiltered Merlot from North Texas, with only two months in French Oak. Has a dark red violet to ruby color. Complex aromas of cucumber, parsley and bell pepper. Flavors of cranberry, cassis, cherry, raspberry, plum, red apple, with accents of cedar and violets. Rounded full-body, with austere acidity and generous alcohol. Pleasant long finish.

• Westcave Cellars Winery, Texas Hill Country, Estate Tannat, 2010

Harvested from 2 year old vines, aged in 2 year old French oak barrels, this estate grown Tannat was clear, with a dark opaque purple color. First impression was ordinary, with a faint hint of bell pepper aroma. It brought flavors of black cherry, dark plum and a nice anise or licorice finish. Pleasant and tart acidity with a long finish.

Certainly this young wine will improve and develop once properly cellared and bottled. It’s worth mentioning that what I have herein listed and tasted, was so to speak just out of production, and will not by any way, mean that the wine that will be released will match the above descriptions. Westcave Cellars owners, the Fetty’s, still need to fine and finish the wine through élevage, and define final blending portions,cellaring techniques, chapitalization if any,  labeling statements, and final presentation in due time.

Margaret Fetty, Viticulturist

Allan Fetty, Enologist

By Winedustry Staff · 15:48pm November 16th, 2010

(Vinton, IA). Winedustry™ – a wine industry news, information, and collaboration website for the growers, makers and sellers of wines made from nontraditional grapes announced today the results of a month-long online contest for readers to pick the Next Big Wine Region.

The voters have spoken!

Chosen from among 11 up-and-coming wine regions across the country, Texas Hill Country earned distinction as the number one pick for Winedustry’s Next Big Wine Region contest. “Participants were solicited on the Winedustry website,  Facebook page, and Twitter feed and selected via convenience sampling procedures with more than 400 votes cast” said Brad Johnson, editor, “the choice was clear”.

1. Texas Hill Country – 53% (215 votes)

2. Cleveland, Ohio – 22% (99 votes)

3. Bloomington, Indiana – 6% (27 votes)

4. Traverse City, Michigan – 6% (26 votes)

“There is clearly established leadership within the Texas Hill Country wine industry and an excitement among Texas Hill Country winery visitors that drew so many to this contest”, said Brad Johnson, “and we congratulate them on this win”!

These eleven areas were selected in part because of a recent “Hidden Gems” article which identified many lesser known regions as particularly intriguing. Winedustry recognizes the many other wine areas throughout the country and will continue promote and advance the cause of nontraditional wines and wine regions.

(www.Winedustry.com)

But scarcity isn’t the only factor in its limited appeal. Its taste profile, while on the one hand able to offer excitement and intrigue for the connoisseur wishing to broaden his palate, can on the other hand provide something of a shock for the uninitiated used to the familiar flavors of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Pale-gold colored in the glass, it provides a chewy, mouth-filling texture low in acidity, combined with a heady, floral aroma. The nose, often exhibiting notes of apricots, peaches, honeysuckle, blossom and rose petals, can deceive as being that of a sweet wine. Yet Viognier is dry and once swallowed, leaves the palate refreshed with a long, savory, mineral aftertaste.

In Condrieu, the Viogniers enjoy a long aging potential and I have always thought they provide a useful, and, in the case of growers such as Paul Jaboulet, good-value addition to a cellar. Outside of Condrieu, they don’t tend to age as well and, as a rule of thumb, it’s advisable to drink them when young, before their distinctive aroma loses some of its punch.

The grape, as well as being an acquired taste, also is quite tricky to grow, winemakers say. It needs plenty of sun and is also susceptible to the fungal disease powdery mildew that can destroy the aroma compounds in grapes and leave them smelling slightly of mould.

Despite this, the grape variety has been undergoing something of a resurgence in recent years. I was reminded of this during a recent lunch with Chris Bonsall, current chairman of The International Wine and Food Society, the august institution founded in 1933 by the great gourmet and historian André Simon. Mr. Bonsall informed me that he had recently been enjoying Australian Viognier. His recommendation was Haan Prestige Viognier 2005 from Tanunda in South Australia. Moreover, he added that the grape variety was experiencing something of a revival in Australia, where the wines didn’t have the aging potential of Condrieu but more than made up for it in fruit and character. Intrigued, I made a note to unearth some Australian Viognier, only to find out that it wasn’t just Australia that is planting Viognier. A quick search led me to examples in South Africa, the Mendoza valley in Argentina and throughout Chile. In California, Bob Lindquist at Qupé blends it with Chardonnay to some effect. I have also tasted it blended with Riesling, which gives it a zesty kick. So I organized a mini tasting to see how it compares with those grown in the northern Rhône.

What immediately struck me was the overwhelming distinctiveness of these wines. Rather like Riesling or, indeed, Muscat they provide a unique taste. Undoubtedly summer wines, given the floral notes I have described earlier, they are perhaps best paired with lighter salads, cold, lightly flavored seafood or dishes with an Asian influence. My personal favorite would be Viognier paired with lightly flavored curries, sushi and certain cheeses such as warmed Camembert spread on a hunk of bread.

One Viognier that stood out for its immediate, fruit-forward appeal was Anakena’s Viognier from the Rapel Valley in Chile. Anakena is a relative newcomer to the international wine scene. The winery is the brainchild of Chilean entrepreneur Felipe Ibáñez and former Wines of Chile President Jorge Gutiérrez. Its first vintage was in 2001 after the vines were planted in 1999. I visited the winery, which sits in the foothills of the Andes in 2005 and found it to be winemaking on a very modern scale. Not only was it kitted out with everything one would expect in a brand new winery such as stainless fermentation tanks, but back then winemaker Gonzalo Pérez also was analyzing soil types and climatic readings obtained from satellites. They used this information to decide which vines were best matched to which soil types. It seemed a long way from the villages of the northern Rhône, where white grape varieties such as Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Rolle have been cultivated for centuries.

By: Will Lyons [The Wall Street Journal 08/06/10]

Much theatrical posturing ensued in which the sommelier flamboyantly sniffed the cork before pouring himself a tasting measure of the wine in question and, after tasting, confidently declared to the table: “This is not corked.” I had to agree but took no pleasure in watching my friend’s expression crumple. I can’t remember whether he actually brought himself to drink the aforementioned bottle, but I do recall enjoying the wine very much.

The problem with identifying wine faults such as cork taint, oxidation, sediment and tartrate crystals or brettanomyces (a subject I will return to later) is that more often than not there is no fault with the wine at all. It just doesn’t taste quite how the drinker expected it to. Take our “earthy” Italian wine. If one is used to a softer, approachable, supple form of wine such as an Australian Merlot instead of the bitter, tannic and dry flavor of an Italian grape variety such as Nebbiolo, then naturally the Italian wine can come as a bit of a shock to the palate.

Similarly, when a wine is served with small pieces of cork floating inside the glass, it isn’t actually corked, it is just that the cork has crumbled and fallen into the glass. These may seem basic rules to some but I wager right now there is someone beckoning the sommelier over, arguing that there are small bits floating on his wine and he will under no circumstances drink “corked wine.”

So how does one identify corked wine? Firstly, it is worth pointing out that in the U.K. this is becoming less of a problem as more wine producers are reverting to screwcaps. Unfortunately for those wines bottled with a cork, there are still corks that are contaminated with TCA, a chemical compound 2,4,6-trichloroanisole that gives the wine an unmistakable pungent, mouldy odor.

By far a more common fault, in my experience, is the wine that has been ruined through oxidation. This is when a small amount of air has seeped in through the cork, leaving the wine smelling “sherried” or without any discernible fruit characteristics. Rarer these days, but still prevalent in some wines, is the occurrence of opening a bottle to find it is “off,” displaying a foul-smelling nose. When I worked in the wine trade a few years back, I learned that this was because of the wine being contaminated by bacteria left over in the winery.

Sediment collected at the bottom of a wine glass can be unpleasant to drink but is entirely natural and expected in wines that are aged. Decanting the wine should avoid this experience. Small tartrate crystals that appear in white wine are also nothing to worry about; they form naturally in the winemaking process.

One fault beloved of wine snobs is that of “brett,” or brettanomyces, to give it its full name. Hugely controversial, brett is a yeast that imparts a distinctive flavor to a wine, best described in my experience as a sort of smoky bacon flavor. It is found predominantly in red Bordeaux, and for many the taste actually improves the wine, adding complexity and character. Those who don’t like the taste, and there are many, often say that it is a result of bad winemaking.

But as Master of Wine Anthony Barne says: “It is a taste that is almost endemic in older clarets and one we all came to know and love as part of the taste of red Bordeaux.

“If you go back 20 years, it was really the Australians who were perhaps more scientific winemakers then the Bordelais were in general. They had identified brett as what they considered to be a wine fault, and then they were finding it in a lot of clarets and were always looking for an angle as to why Australian wines were superior to French wines. But unless it is really strong, I don’t see it as a huge problem, I must say.”

A view echoed by Simon Staples, sales director at Berry Bros. & Rudd wine merchants, who says, “It’s a fault I rarely come across and if I had to be honest, if you mention it, I don’t think most people know what you are talking about.” Which is precisely why the wine snobs love it so much.

By: Will Lyons [The Wall Street Journal 8/20/10]

July 6, 2010, 7:38 pm

The Role of the Sommelier

Are you naturally suspicious of sommeliers, wine shops and restaurants? Do you believe that given the chance they will try to take advantage of you, to sell you something you don’t want, make you spend more than you had planned and, worst of all, help themselves to what is rightfully yours?

Well, maybe you don’t feel this way, but some people do. Such suspicions fuel some of the negative reactions toward the practice in some restaurants of having sommeliers taste the wines diners have ordered before serving them to the table.

Suspicions are not the only reason some people object to this practice. Others feel they are the best judges of whether a wine is flawed or not, and do not appreciate sommeliers appropriating their role.

Personally, I don’t mind it at all. Who, after all would be more familiar with the wines on a restaurant list than the sommelier? I can imagine several scenarios where a sommelier might be better equipped to recognize a flawed bottle than I would.

For example, consider the fact that, while obviously corked bottles may be easy to detect, slightly corked bottles reveal themselves not so much through off aromas but by muting a wine’s natural fragrance and flavors. I might not notice this, but a sommelier, who theoretically at least knows what a wine is supposed to smell like, would presumably recognize the difference.

As for usurping the role of the judge, I don’t believe this is the case at all. Just because sommeliers taste the wine does not mean they have the final say in the matter. They must still present the bottle to the table and offer a taste to a guest, who may reject the bottle for countless reasons. A sommelier, believing the bottle is not flawed, may suggest in turn allowing the wine to breathe for a few minutes, or cooling it, or even decanting it. But ultimately, the guest is the final arbiter. If a table rejects a bottle, that must be accommodated.

This is occasionally where trouble comes up. A sommelier, insufficiently trained, may choose to argue the matter. Bad idea! A good bottle that’s been rejected can always be used for something else. The wine can be sold by the glass, or it can be served to the staff as a training exercise. But a guest who has had a confrontation will never return, and that will cost the restaurant a lot more in the long run.

Call me a sunny optimist, but I firmly believe that good sommeliers want nothing more than to make sure their customers enjoy the best possible experience. I don’t mind putting myself in their hands.

Of course, the operative word is “good.” I see a significant difference between a good, well-trained sommelier, and somebody who was put in charge of wine because they are enthusiastic about it. But restaurants that are serious about wine take wine service seriously as well. And if part of that service includes a sommelier taking a minuscule amount of wine to insure that it is sound, well, that’s alright by me.

Eric Asimov is the wine critic for the Times.

When the First Sip Is the Sommelier’s, Not Yours

By ERIC ASIMOV

Published: July 6, 2010

STEPHEN SILBERLING, a tax lawyer who considers himself a knowledgeable wine drinker, could not contain his astonishment as he told me of his recent experience in a New York restaurant. He had ordered a 2007 Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Belleruche, a wine he and his date had enjoyed so much the previous week that they decided to drink it again. As they sipped their first glass, however, they both thought the wine tasted different, and they debated whether it was flawed.

Listening to the conversation, the sommelier piped up.

“He said, ‘I’ve tasted the wine, it’s fine,’ ” Mr. Silberling recalled. “He tasted the wine? I was very surprised. I had never heard of that being done before.”

Few issues of wine etiquette seem to cause as much consternation as the increasingly common practice of a sommelier taking a small sip of wine, usually unbidden, to test for soundness. Diners often are surprised to learn that their bottle has in effect been shared with the restaurant, even if it’s just the smallest amount.

The practice, which is more common at high-end restaurants with ambitious wine lists, can make diners uncomfortable. Some believe the restaurant may be taking advantage of them by consuming wine that they have bought. Others feel demeaned, that their role of assessing the wine has been usurped.

“I know I’d rather be doing the tasting because I trust myself,” Mr. Silberling said.

It’s a touchy subject, particularly because, from the restaurant’s point of view, it’s all for the consumer’s benefit. Some restaurants believe that, since they are more familiar than most consumers with the wines they offer, they can save diners from accidentally accepting a bottle that is not up to standard. “I think it’s an important service,” said Daniel Johnnes, wine director for Daniel Boulud’s Dinex Group. “We want the sommelier to assure that the wine gets to the customer as it is intended.”

I have noticed this practice more often in the last decade, but in fact it was one of the original tasks of the sommelier.

“It goes back hundreds of years, when the role of sommeliers was to ensure that kings or royalty didn’t get poisoned,” said Evan Goldstein, a wine educator and former president of the American chapter of the Court of Master Sommeliers, an organization dedicated to raising the standards of beverage service. “My understanding is that the tastevin was put on a chain and put around the neck of the sommelier exactly for that purpose.”

Ah, the tastevin, the shallow silver cup that today largely evokes the image of the supercilious sommelier. In the United States, where most restaurants have tried to relax the formality of wine service, one rarely sees a tastevin. Le Bernardin in New York is one of the few that still employs it as a working tool.

“I want to ensure the wine I serve is in perfect condition,” said Aldo Sohm, Le Bernardin’s chef sommelier. “We use it. It’s not just for show.”

Allowing the sommelier a sniff or small taste of a wine is a sensible precaution for a restaurant to take, I think, both from its own point of view and from the customer’s. No good restaurant wants to serve flawed or bad wine, and tasting the wine first is a step toward preventing that.

Many people, even those who know something about wine, are not comfortable suggesting that a bottle is flawed. They might feel uncertain, or embarrassed, and would rather endure a bottle they are not enjoying than send it back. If a sommelier can prevent that, I think it’s worth the sip that’s sacrificed.

At RN74, a top wine-oriented restaurant in San Francisco, sommeliers check every bottle, said Christie Dufault, who is a sommelier there and a wine and beverage instructor at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley. She is still haunted by a southern Rhône wine she once served a table without having tasted it. After they left, having consumed only half the bottle, she checked it and found it was badly corked.

“I’ve seen consumers become way more knowledgeable, but I recommended a wine that was completely foreign to these people,” she said. “They didn’t recognize that the wine was flawed. We don’t want that scenario to ever be repeated.”

Nonetheless, some consumers, even educated ones, are suspicious of the practice.

“I’ve never seen it, and I would say I’m happy I’ve never seen it,” said Joe Roberts, who blogs about wine at 1winedude.com. “I would imagine the first reaction would be, somebody’s trying to cop a taste of my expensive wine.”

Ms. Dufault realizes the practice may require sommeliers to step into delicate territory.

“We want customers to realize that good sommeliers are looking out for their best interests,” she said. “It’s our job to observe our guests. If I observe a guest who really knows wine, then maybe this service isn’t necessary.”

Fred Dexheimer, a master sommelier whose company, Juiceman Consulting, advises restaurants on wine service, believes sniffing and tasting before serving is a sound practice.

“I want the guest to have the best experience possible,” he said. “It’s like a chef making sure all the sauces are correct.”

But Mr. Dexheimer said he has seen the ritual abused by sommeliers who have poured themselves a little more wine than perhaps was necessary. He said sommeliers have to understand that some wines are more prone to problems than others, and therefore are more important to check. He mentioned unfiltered white wines, for example, or wines whose cork might have some visible mold on it. I might add to that list wines like white Burgundies, which are prone to oxidation problems that some consumers may not recognize.

Even if a sommelier has tasted a wine and found it sound, that does not ensure that a customer will like it. So what happens if a sommelier believes a wine has no problem, but the customer rejects it, as was the case with Mr. Silberling?

“The rule is, if the customer is not happy with the wine, take the wine back,” Mr. Johnnes said. “It doesn’t happen so frequently that we can’t do that.”

He suggests engaging in conversation with the customer. It may be that a wine needs to breathe a bit, or needs to be gently cooled. But if those options are not satisfactory, he said, just take the wine back.

Some bottles are obviously flawed, but others can be borderline cases. What is undetectable to some people, even to experts, is off-putting to others. Above all, he said, sommeliers should never argue with customers, even if they believe a bottle is sound.

Mr. Dexheimer remembers doing just that as a young sommelier. “I still have guilty nightmares about that 10 years later,” he said. “Take the rest of that bottle and educate your staff, or pour it by the glass. There are ways to recover from that, but if you make a guest unhappy, you’ll never get that guest back.”

One way of alleviating the mistrust that some customers may feel, he suggested, is simply to alert guests that you, the sommelier, are going to taste the wine to make sure it’s all right.

That would work for Mr. Roberts, the wine blogger. “It would almost go from something that seems malignant to something that’s viewed as good service,” he said.

Communication, Mr. Dexheimer said, is one more way to remove the pretension from wine.

“If you communicate everything you do to the guests, you help to create an atmosphere of trust,” he said. “If you don’t ask permission, you’re going to get in trouble.”

Article was taken from The New York Times (http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/07/dining/07pour.html?pagewanted=1)

On the left you will find the alphabetical list of the wineries that are part of this growing association. And for more information please visit: